Photograph musical instruments to show the complete instrument, its playing interfaces and its actual condition. For a guitar, that means the body, neck, headstock, bridge and controls; for a keyboard, the keys, panel and connections. Photographs can document visible construction and wear, but sound and playability need separate evidence.
Give each instrument a functional shot list
| Instrument | Essential detail views | What the overview cannot establish |
|---|---|---|
| Guitar or bass | Headstock front/back, frets, bridge, pickups and output jack | Fret wear, repaired cracks or working electronics |
| Keyboard or synthesizer | Entire keybed, controls, rear ports and power label | Key response or compatibility of an unshown power supply |
| Brass or woodwind | Mouthpiece connection, keys/valves and body joints | Air leaks, valve action or playing condition |
| Drum | Shell, bearing-edge area where accessible, hardware and heads | Condition hidden beneath installed components |
| Microphone or audio accessory | Connector, switches, mount and supplied cable | Working audio performance |
Do not dismantle an instrument solely to obtain a photograph if doing so risks damage or changes its setup. Use an appropriate stand and show inaccessible areas only when they can be exposed safely.
Photograph long necks without shortening them
Step back enough to include the whole instrument without tilting it sharply away from the camera. Keep the camera approximately parallel to the instrument for a proportion-reference view. A dramatic headstock-near-camera angle exaggerates neck width and makes body proportions harder to judge.
For scale length, do not measure the entire instrument from end to end. On a conventionally fretted guitar, twice the distance from the nut's string-contact edge to the center of the twelfth fret gives the nominal scale length; bridge compensation can make the actual vibrating string length differ. Label your method and use the maker's specification when available. Fender's setup documentation describes the nut-to-twelfth-fret method.
For keyboards, include the complete keybed so missing keys or an unexpectedly short model cannot be hidden by a crop. If dimensions matter for a case or desk, provide measured outside width, depth and height separately.
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Use reflections to reveal the finish
A glossy guitar body acts like a curved mirror. Move a broad diffuser until its reflection describes the curve without obscuring the grain. Take an additional raking-light view to reveal dents and finish checking. Do not use the cleanest reflection angle as the only condition photograph of a used instrument.
Brass bells and chrome hardware also need controlled surroundings. White and black cards let you shape reflected bands; trying to make the metal uniformly bright can hide engraving and shallow damage. For lacquer and sunburst colors, follow the color-reference workflow before applying any creative grading.
Keep condition and identification connected
Photograph the serial or model label clearly, then a wider image that shows where it belongs on the instrument. A label alone does not authenticate a collectible or prove its age. Show repairs, replacement tuners, changed pickups or missing screws that are known or visible, and describe uncertainty honestly.
For fret wear, light along the fretboard and photograph the relevant region close enough to see the crowns. A photograph cannot reliably certify a complete setup or quantify action unless the measurement tool, reference point and method are visible.
The vintage condition guide explains why patina and maker's marks should be recorded rather than treated as proof of authenticity.
Separate included accessories from studio supports
Lay out the actual case, bow, mouthpiece, pedals, power supply or cables supplied with the instrument. Avoid showing an unrelated amplifier in the contents photograph. If it appears in a promotional scene, make clear that it is a prop.
Use ShotBG background removal for a clean overview, then inspect strings, tuning pegs, bow hair, key gaps and cable loops against the source. A thin string can be mistaken for background, while a stand can be retained as part of the instrument.
For resale presentation, the eBay background workflow can help simplify the scene. Preserve the unaltered condition photographs and provide audio or functional descriptions separately; a polished photograph cannot demonstrate how the instrument plays.
